(A traditional home on the beach at Salamaua)
Today I had the opportunity to visit Salamaua, a village about two hours by boat south of Lae. In it’s heyday – Salamaua was a center for colonial administration and a hub of activity. Nowadays, the small seaside village, is layed back, tropical and as close to paradise as I have ever experienced.
Tickets for a cruise to Salamaua were being solf by one of the local softball teams to rasie money for the club. A few weeks ago I purchased a couple of these tickets – I thought it be a nice outing for Eli and myself as neither of us had been there before. We left home at around 7:00am and got back just on dark. Although I am not a fan of organised tours or cruises (neither is Eli) – it was a most enjoyable and relaxed day.
Went for a walk around “town” and met a few of the locals, went for a swim and “pigged” out on some mumu (the worse I have had to date) – food was provided by the cruise organisers by the way. Also managed to have a nice little nap on the beach and before leaving later that afternoon made a decision to come back at a quieter time.
One of the interesting features of Salamaua are the beach houses owned by some of the ex-pat community. Million dollar views for a fraction of the price and paradise at it’s best. These houses which back at home would not get a 2nd look – in Salamaua they stick out like the proverbial dogs balls. The contrast of these homes with the local village huts overrides their average appearance and gives them an air of “mansionhood”. As I walked passed some of these homes I did get a glimpse of the white folk sitting around enjoying a beer or a book and got the impression that what I was looking at were “old time” ex-pats – in other words white folks that have been around PNG for a long time. Each to their own and live and let live – is my motto. (Wouldn’t mind a beach house at Salamaua myself to be honest).
Anyway, I did manage to snap some photos and I have placed these in the Salamaua visit (11/6/06) photo album. Worth a squizz !!
Catch.
I stayed in one of these old colonial houses back in the early sixties, as a boy. It was out on the end of the peninsula and had its own jetty. I think it was owned by the Zavattaros, or the Batzes, from well before WW2. I remember the being savaged by sandflies. Very few buildings on the north side of PNG survived WW2. (The O’Brien plantation homestead in Madang was another.) My uncle, one of the WW2 commandos who attacked at the Japanese at Salamoa from the Kuppe Range, also stayed in the same house after the battle. He also helped to do the mock-up battle that Damian Parer filmed at Salamoa, after the real fighting was over.
Hi Rowan,
Appreciate you sharing a little history with us. PNG must have been a magic place back in those days. Now and especially around the town areas – place seems to be going to the dogs.
R
PNG was never totally safe, for any one, national or foreigner. The big increase in firearms numbers over the last 15 years makes it very different from the old days. Enough ranting.
I should spell it Salamaua, like every one else.
The Australian commandos were dropped a Wau, by the US airforce. They followed the “Black Cat” trail down to the coast..the old gold miners trail. The villagers along the trail were sometimes shot at by gold miners, and so were quite wary of the commandos. (A lot of the Australian miners were “raskols”.) Uncle Bill describes how the villagers would follow along, at a safe distance, until a Jap was killed. They would then zip in and take the body, with a few words of English…”long pig, masta”. Long pigs were a delicacy, and not too many prisoners were taken on the trail. I guess these days it would be classed as war crime.
After checking with my brother…my trip to Salamaua was in August ’64, on Zavatarro’s boat, from Voco Point. BZ was taking some Police to Salamaua to shoot a rogue croc that had been terrorizing the area. No croc was shot … probably just an excuse for the taxpayer to fund a weekend trip for the police.
Rowan,
Excellent stuff and thanks again for adding your “two bobs” worth.
Have adjusted the spelling of the name – always been one of those place names for which I get the spelling wrong!
And… I have it on good authority that PNG public servants are still doing free trips at the expense of the local tax payer. In the old days – a weekend trip up or down the coast – nowadays – business class all around the globe!
Regards,
R