Simbu – Highlanders and their politics !!

It is a well known fact that PNG Highlanders take their politics very seriously. In the lead up to elections, guns are gathered and cached – for those “just in case” situations, cash is handed out by the truckloads, big promises made and clans tend to vote as one. Everyone wants their “man” to win.

On my recent trip to Eli’s village I had the opportunity to experience 1^st hand the lead up to the Chuave District By-Election. One of Eli’s Uncle’s was nominated and put forward as a candidate for the seat of Chuave by the folks from “Kaubasis”. Uncle Russell was one of 24 candidates.

During our 5 day stay visit in the village two neighbouring clans made the trek to “Kaubasis” to meet and discuss politics with Uncle Russell. As the clans entered the village, some of these folks walking through the mountains for a whole day, and on arriving – ceremonies and exchanges would take place.

This tradition of exchange and the coming together of different clans in PNG is something to behold. As an outsider I felt a deep sense of privilege to witness this age old custom. Whilst gifts and formalities are exchanged between clan elders, chanting and wailing can be observed and heard by the other clan members.

With these initial greetings out of the way, both men and women adjourned to the haus man for discussions and speeches. Oh boy! The PNG men sure like to make speeches. Long speeches. What takes a couple of minutes to perhaps say in English can go on for what seems like forever in Tok Pisin. The haus man is a special place within the Highlands village, it is a communal building where important meetings take place, issues are nutted out and visitors are invited into.

As a village guest and new tambu (in-law) – I was invited to sit in the haus man on a number of occasions. Each time I was welcomed as one of their own and asked to speak to the gathering. This experience just blew me right away. Many tears were shed during this five day stay, some privately and others publicly. It’s at these times that I have to touch myself – this has been my dream for over twenty years – to sit and gather and share with tribal folks.

The Chuave By-Elections are now over and a new MP elected. Unfortunately for the people of “Kaubasis” it wasn’t Uncle Russell. Perhaps he might have better luck next year at the PNG National elections. I had the opportunity to listen to and speak with Uncle Russell on a number of occasions and I was certainly impressed with the man. Privately, I was hoping that he would win as I believe him to be a man of compassion and integrity, qualities which politicians nowadays both here in PNG and abroad, seem to lack.

For photos of this trip to “Kaubasis” in Simbu please check out the Kaubasis visit (7/7/06) photo album. !!