The once peaceful town of Goroka has been experiencing a steady rise in criminal activity. In the past week alone there have been at least half a dozen armed hold-ups, shoot outs with police and a spate of break and enters. The locals and old-timers alike proudly refer to the Eastern Highland’s capital as the most peaceful and safest of PNG towns.
The reason for this increase in criminal activity – not only here in Goroka – but across all major urban sprawls across PNG lies at the very center of the current issues facing PNG. Migration of rural folks to towns, large numbers of unemployed and aimless youth, rampant alcoholism and anti-social behaviour, the settlement problem and not to mention the marijuana abuse and gambling scourge. Combine these and the picture of where things are headed here is far from pretty.
As I sit here at my desk at home listening to the rain falling outside I remember when I first landed at Jackson’s airport in Port Moresby back in April 2005, the bus ride from the balus ples to the Comfort Inn and the vivid memory of seeing the infamous compounds for the first time. Oh shit…!! would be an understatement as to what was going through my mind four and half years ago after landing in what many describe as one of the most violent cities on earth.
Although those 1st few months in Lae were riddled with fear of the unknown and sense of overwhelm – I quickly cottoned on to the key to staying safe in this country: interact, interact and intreact. I discovered that by mixing and spending time with the locals I was almost guaranteed safety no matter where I ventured. Some of the places I have walked and the people I have associated with along the way are enough to fill an average sized book. My style (for want of better term) and level of mixing with the street boys of Goroka town has earned me the right to “free passage”. Whether it’s Red Corner or Kakaruk Market, Genoka or Banana Block, the bus stops / main market area or Chuave buai Market – I can come and go as I please.
As a volunteer and someone that works and lives in the heart of the community I have had to immerse myself with the locals – to do otherwise would automatically have made me a target – those of us that come here without access to fortified compounds, around the clock security, vehicles and armed escort – learn to survive, co-exist and eventaully make friends with those around us. What started out as a necessity has reunited this person with humanity and a sense belonging. For me PNG has been a rewarding, at times difficult but overall a spiritually enriching experience. The innocence, tribal lore and custom, the inherent friendliness and aggression of the average Highlander coupled with the opportunity to be a “part of” continues to drive me along a path of personal discovery and challenge way beyond anything I could have imagined at the outset.
Back to the story about the rise of raskol activity in Goroka…
Three weeks ago Hospital staff went on strike in concern over security after the Hospital’s Matron was robbed at gun-point in her home which is loacted on the grounds of Goroka General Hospital itself. To add fuel to the flame – within the last week two Specialist Doctors have also been held-up at gun-point within their homes. The concern for personal safety that staff had a few weeks ago has understandably been aggravated – where this will all lead is anyone’s guess but needless to say that tension and confusion currently prevail within the workplace.
The law and order issues in Goroka are a concern to most – some talk about removing the settlements – others talk about strenghening the police force. Whilst people everywhere debate a solution – the problem just seems to be getting worse. It’s not one of those things where you just flick a switch and it’s all over. This is an incredibly complex and sensitive issue and in my humble opinion one unlikely to find a solution in the short term. The term “peaceful Goroka” could very well become a thing of the yesteryear.
To the average urban Papua New Guinean life is a struggle and most live from day to day – human suffering in your face. As a volunteer and visitor to this country I accept and understand the need for me to exercise neutrality around topical issues. There are times when this middle stance is incredibly difficult to hold due to the empathy and compassion I feel for those suffering around me. In a buddhist sort of a way it puts me very much in touch with my own suffering as a human.
I keep digressing…
Last night at around 6:00pm a Security Company vehicle rocks up to our front gate and a security guard hops out of the car. I am told that a night “watch” had been organised for all doctors and specialists and I was included on the list of staff to be protected – daily between 6pm to 6am. Politely, I refused – not because I think we are exempt from becoming victims of another crime but simply – the idea of having someone wandering our yard – another mouth to feed – another “needy” person in our lives – was enough to strongly decline the offer. Besides, the day that I become a prisoner in my own home – is probably the day that I need to get the “fuck out of Dodge”.
As with all else… more will be revealed.
Robert, tis a coincidence that I am just about to put pen to paper for an article about Goroka, given that I grew up here in the 70s and worked here in late 90s, early 00s, you raise this.
I was in Goroka three weeks ago and was surprised at how far backward the place has gone.
I will ask to quote you for the article I’m qorking on.
Hi Malum,
Must be very sad and upsetting for folks – such as yourself – that remember a peaceful and quiet town. I’m only a newbie and have only known the current status.
Cheers,
R