An exchange of vows

We’ve been staying out at the “Hut” on and off for the past couple of weeks and it’s been absolutely magnificent. With my AVI contract finishing at the end of this month followed by a return flight to Sydney on the 9th of February the village stays are becoming increasingly emotional.

I have been accepted into the village like a son and the bond that has formed over the past four years is beyond the realm of words. On the 23rd of October, 2008 a formal ceremony took place during which I was anointed “Chief” of 8 clans – I was presented with a spear that had not been held in public for 3 generations – the old men gave me the name of “papa” in Tok Ples and I now participate in tribal and clan gatherings as a leader.

In addition to the sense of privilege and honour I feel at being adopted by the clan, I am also reminded of a dream I had as young man to one day work and live with tribal people. The opportunity to come to PNG as volunteer has allowed me to fulfil the vision that was born within all those years ago at Hyde Park in Sydney.

Although I do intend to return to the Highlands after a short break and some job searching Downunder – I hope you are able to appreciate the delicate nature of the situation in relation to the village folks. Some of the old folks have even told me that they will cut off a finger after I depart (a traditional Highlands ritual when grieving a loved one).

So during this last visit I called a formal gathering of the Bolku clan and shared my situation and intentions with them openly. Many of us cried and words of love, nurturing and re-assurance were exchanged.

It was decided by the clan leaders during this meeting…. that on the weekend of the 8th of January a formal clan ceremony will take place during which Eli and myself will exchange vows, not a full wedding but a cut down version of a formal Highlands wedding ceremony (to take place another time). We will share a meal prepared by the clan and we will be spoken to by the elders – first separate (men and women) and then together.

I better start putting away some coins to purchase the mandatory half a dozen “bride price” pigs !!

Here’s a few photos taken in the village over the past two weeks…


Bubu from Yondumo (16/12/09)A local Bubu from Keto-Iraupa Clan at Yondumo


Firewood and fresh food that were given to us (16/12/09) Firewood and fresh food given to us just after arriving at the “Hut”


Pipex (Senior member) from Manuku Clan (16/12/09) Pipex from the Maneku Clan – a committed village man


Those of you keen to take a peek at other photos taken in the village over the past couple of weeks just click on one of the following thumbnails…

Keto-Tapasi Progress Association 1st Anniversary (album):

Album Kaubasis Visit 20091215 - 1st Anniversary

Xmas celebrations in the village (album):

Album Kaubasis Visit 20091225 - Xmas

While I’m here and if you happened to have reached the end of the post allow me to take this opportunity to wish you all health wealth and wisdom for the future and may 2010 be a ripper of a year for all.

The Author

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