With exactly one month to go before I leave Papua New Guinea and return to Sydney I am reminded of the catch phrase made famous by Arnold Schwarzenegger: “I’ll be back”.
As hard and frustrating as I have found life to be in the Land of the Unexpected there is enough pull and attraction for me to want to come back for a round “2″. I will never forget that moment at around the six month mark, waiting for a return PMV to Lae after my 1st weekend in Goroka, when it hit me that I was beginning to fall in love with a land and a people.
So what is it exactly about this place, a land that many deem to be the epitome of violence and chaos, that would motivate me enough to even think about returning?
Perhaps if I share with you 10 Reasons that come to mind:
- The number one reason without a doubt is to be reunited with the love of my life: Eli. A tribal ceremony will take place in the village this weekend where we will exchange vows. Something along the lines of an Engagement Party. The 1st time I have ever felt strongly enough about a person to want to “commit” at this level.
- The “Hut”. Many couples spend their entire working lives slaving away and paying of a home somewhere in the suburbs, driven by and chasing a dream, only to find that the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow is a myth and a false prophet. And as the West continues to career towards slow extinction we will take haven in our clean and fresh water supply, fresh garden crops and almost unlimited supply of firewood.
- The potential to market, sell and establish a Services Industry around Open Source solutions remains untapped. Considering the green field nature of IT in this country, I firmly believe in the opportunity for Open Solutions to deliver solid, reliable and cost effective solutions to a wide range of sectors in Papua New Guinea.
- Belonging. If there is one thing and one thing only that I have found in PNG – it would have to be a sense of “belonging”. The loneliness and isolation that I had grown so accustomed to in my home town of Sydney is now all but broken. Having said that and as connected as I feel with people here – I have also developed a deep appreciation and love towards my own blood (family) back “home”.
- Markets. There is something about PNG markets that hits the spot. To take an afternoon or weekend stroll down to the local market for some good old fashioned human interaction is one aspect of melanesian culture gurantueed to knock the wind out of the most powerful of “blues”.
- Speaking of markets – the local fresh vegetables and fruits is something that I have grown to really appreciate and enjoy. Back in so called modern civilisation, supermarkets sell fresh produce that looks exceptional but once you cut it open and taste it – you just know that there’s something missing. Here, the fruit and vegies don’t necessarily look the best but once you give them the taste test you just know that you are eating something full of life. In the Highlands – organics are the norm by the way.
- Buai (betenut) chewing. Although a filthy and unhygienic habit – there is a social aspect to standing around a little buai market that can only be understood if you have ever stood around a little buai market and had a chew. Besides, the little green acacia palm nut has been my most effective security and protection over the past 5 years. If there is one thing and one thing only that will ensure your personal safety in this place, in my books it would definitely have to be buai (more effective than a weapon!). In a strange sort of a way – buai has given me the privilege of “free passage” – to come and go in the most dangerous and violent of town settlements.
- On the subject of buai… how can I forget the street boys, sellers, pick-pockets and half sense population of Lae and Goroka. On my return and if my “plan” (yes, I have a plan) is realised – I will fund a BBQ just for the street people of Goroka town. I empathise, interact, occasionally give away a few coins, share a story and a laugh. The street lads will always hold a special place in my heart.
- The humanity. There is more humanity in PNG than what you will ever find in the collective of the developed world. I remember on one of my return trips to Sydney, my 2nd day back in town at a local shopping center – a man had fallen over and hurt himself badly – I stood back as I watched people just walking past and avoiding eye contact at all cost. The westerner within also wanted to just wander off and pretend that nothing had happened. But the newly found Papua New Guinean within walked over and reached out to another human in need. Later that day as I shared the story with Mum – I shed a tear for my people and felt a deep shame that this is what my culture has become .
- The list could go on and on… village life, the clan, highlands public speaking and oratory, Eli’s cooking, strawberry thick shake down at the Bird of Paradise, the local coffee , meeting the rare expat that shares a similar connection with PNG, our dog “Gelo”, daily crosswords and comics in the two local newspapers, flour balls and “karuka” nuts, etc…
And here’s a few more photos taken in the village over the xmas new year break…
An old man washing his hat by the river next to our “Hut”:
A view of our “Hut” from a slightly different angle:
Poor old Billy gets the knife and slowly gets ready to “depart”:
And if you wish to take a peek at other photos taken in the village recently just click-i-ti-click on one of the following thumbnails…
Keto-Tapasi Progress Association 1st Anniversary (album):
Xmas celebrations in the village (album):
We have a busy three or four days ahead of us and if PNG holds true to its name we will be experiencing a higher than normal level of the unexpected:
- Our friend Anthony is visiting and will be with us in the village over the weekend.
- We get engaged in the “eyes” of the clan on Sunday.
- Today, I will put final touches to an agreement/contract which will hopefully provide us with the means to start a local business – more on this another time.
- A film crew from the “What Took You So Long Foundation” is arriving in Goroka later today. They will be travelling with us to the village and spending the weekend filming and learning about life in a Simbu village.
Certainly beats a boring old life in suburban Sydney!!
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Greetings wantok!
I discovered your blog a few months ago and have been checking in regularly. I was a volunteer in PNG for two years in the late 80s…. I worked in the bush in Morobe but raun-rauned as much as possible so your photos and plenti storis from Goroka, Simbu and other places are familiar and evoke a range of emotions. Some things are sadly new… guns and “street boys”; others strangely new (internet!); others, happily the same. Em nau! Buai greased many an interaction in my days there….
Your list of ten things you love reminded me of the long list an American wantok and I compiled at one point… so much to love in PNG. And yet how well I also remember the sad, the frustrating, the bad. My last night in PNG (knowing that in all likelihood I would never return – so far tru) I sobbed for hours and hours… for all the incredible experiences I had, the amazing, good people I met (expats and nationals), for the beauty of a country imperiled by greed and corruption, for the way violence was a dark undercurrent in my experiences there, for my failure to achieve my modest goals as a volunteer during my given time. But mostly… I was overwhelmed with gratitude for the good fortune to know and experience the people and culture and beauty of a place like no other. Good luck as you discern the next moves in your life… congrats on your celebration with Eli… looking forward to more PNG storis when you return. Stap gud… Mary
Mary,
Thanks for your kind and supportive words. Only someone that has lived and worked (on the ground) in PNG for an extended period would really understand what we are on about. Your last night in POM and the tears that flowed down your face facing the prospect of never coming back suggests to me that you also connected with the people and land.
Your understanding and empathy are most welcomed at this point of my life journey.
Robert
Rob, say what ? Have you gone commercial ? ie, is that a Google Ad that I see above ? Next, you’ll probably ask all visitors to click on these ads to fund the Trupela.com web site ! (not a bad idea, hey !)
John,
Therefore the adage – never say never!
I would tell people to “click” if they (adverts) generated a decent income. I think that in three months I’ve made about $5. I don’t really get the sort of traffic that to make a buck our of Adsense.
rbro.
Good post Rob. Tru tumas! My family and I have bit the bullet and we are moving back to the Solomons for many of the same reasons. We are heading back in March and will be living in Munda on New Georgia in the Solomons’ Western Province. Good luck for the future.
Nick,
Good luck bro!
Your comments and understanding over the past couple of years by way of comments have meant a lot to me. I wish you and family all the best in the move back to paradise!
R
Best of luck to you, Robert. I’ll miss reading your PNG stories, but I guess in another couple of weeks I’ll be making my own. UNI is working on the flight scheduling now. I know I’m making the right decision and all your stories have provided me with so much insight. Just visiting for 4 days, I was sad when I left! PNG is a special place and I can’t wait to document my own journey. I’m coming to bring my expertise, yet I have a feeling I’ll learn more than I’ll ever be able to teach. I know this time is bittersweet for you, but no doubt you’ll return! Safe travels!
–Wendy
Thanks Wendy!
Good luck and safe travel.
Looking forward to hearing about your experiences in Lae.
Robert
R,
What an interesting story in the National Weekender. I am humbled by the great amount of work you put to change Gka and PNG. You’re efforts will be kindled and remembered by the folks you met and encountered during your five wonderful and fruitful years in Gka/PNG.
Thank you for your work and please; do visit the ‘Land of the Unexpected’ from time to time. Of course, I know you WILL BE BACK! :) Thank you for being a good friend online and your comments on my blog. Hope to catch in PNG/Aussie sometime in the future.
I wish you God’s immense blessings and success in your future.
DUKetepa
Detroit, Michigan
David,
Thank you for your kind words. I have a deep gratitude for the friendships that have developed over the past few years with PNG’eans in general but especially with those that contribute and participate in the PNG blogging scene. Although most of us have never met face to face I feel we share a common love and purpose. May we continue to interact and grow together despite the geographic distances.
Regards,
Robert
Hi Robert,
I am so happy for you that you have finally engaged to eli with the x mas 2010 wedding.
Your post title “I’ll be back” is very inspiring to me.
Reading how you have been accepted as a chief and also how everyone at eli’s village has welcomed you, how you treat your new village family/ clan, the simple village life, street mangis of lae and goroka.. all these humble things done by you has made me think about my own life and is a good example set by you which I could follow.
All the best in the remaining months in PNG, your x mas wedding, and lastly….
“yu em wantok nau, olsem na yu go bek sydney, yu mas kam bek ken lo PNG next year 2011″
Regards wantok
Daniel tomit
Kokopo
Daniel,
Your comment and inspiring words could not have come at a better time my dear friend. Life sometimes takes strange twists and at the time its difficult to understand why things happen as they do. I figure life is like a book – with chapters – and it’s time to close the chapter on volunteering and start a new chapter. I plan on making PNG very much a part of this new chapter. I will be back quicker than what you can say “kakaruk”!!
Regards,
Robert
Rob I forgot to say in my last comment, that I like the 10 reasons why you’ll come back to PNG, especially comment # 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10!
Ha ha
regards
daniel tomit
kokopo
Daniel,
Onya mate!
Robert