Robert@PNG

We stayed at Fatao village in the Eastern Highland’s over the weekend, the birthplace of
Eli’s Mum and home of her clan. About an hour’s PMV ride from Goroka headed up
the Highland’s
Highway and then about a three hour walk through a valley and three villages
and then a hike up into the mountains.

Point form of the weekend follows: 

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Whilst waiting for a PMV at
Goroka main markets we were confronted with a potentially violent situation.
The day before a man got hacked to death in front of onlooker’s, adjacent to
the main market area. Apparently a payback situation over a previous killing,
the man was holding his child at the time and his kid also got hacked. As we
were waiting for the PMV a group of men gathered around the killing spot,
obviously fellow tribesmen of the deceased, we could see them scraping dirt
from the spot where he was killed. I found out later that they had come to
collect his spirit to take back home. Some of these men were seen carrying guns
and knives, there was tension in the air as bystanders stood and watched, I
sensed the alertness and preparedness for a revenge attack. We were relieved
once we found a PMV and left town for the village.

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The natural beauty and
surrounds once we started walking away from the Highway from Koningi Bridge
were absolutely stunning. The fast flowing rivers, the breathtaking views from
Fatao itself, the water falls, the steep mountain sides and the lush vegetation
assured an abundance of optic ecstasy. I instantly fell in love with the
natural beauty and was both awed and inspired by the experience.

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Meeting Eli’s relatives from
her Mum’s side, for the first time, was an experience in itself. Our main
reason for traveling to Fatao was to see Eli’s grandfather, Bubu Kandoni.
Kandoni is old and possibly close to dieing; he made the journey to Fatao (his
birthplace) recently after living with Eli’s parents for some years at West Taraka in Lae. It was certainly a joy to see the old
man again but even more special was the experience of connecting with a whole
new set of relatives. The whole extended family thing is beyond comprehension,
Eli’s relatives, clan, tribe, call it what you like – just seems to get larger
and larger. There is no way in the world that I’m ever going to remember
everyone’s name, let alone know where they actually sit within the extended
family or clan structure.

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The hospitality of the PNG
village and its people is beyond description. I suppose coming into the village
as a white man and also as a relative (Eli’s husband) makes it more
interesting. The fact that I walk into the village barefoot with bilum and cap make
me somewhat unique in the eyes of the locals. The curiosity and attention of
the locals is further augmented when I sit down (on the ground) and chew
betelnut with them. Together with this curiosity there’s also a respect as I
begin to converse with them in (almost) fluent Tok Pisin. Whatever they feel
for me I feel the same back. This is exactly what makes the PNG village experience
so mesmerizing for me, it’s this mutual sense of curiosity and respect for each
other. As we interact there’s an exchange; an exchange of the old and the new.
It’s like the coming together of two worlds and I’m smack bang right in the
middle. Privileged I think they call it, that’s precisely how I feel when I
visit a PNG village.

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The other memorable occasion
over the weekend was meeting Papa John Dawa. John Dawa is one of Eli’s uncle’s
from her Mum’s side and also an ex MP and Minister of Government. He won his
local seat at three successive elections around the eighties. A simple but
incredible man, a man in love with his people, a leader with an amazing sense
of duty and service. John Dawa, during his three terms in office, was
responsible for the lobbying and eventual construction of the road leading into
Fatao. The three bridges that cross the river on the way up the mountain are
also his legacy. Since leaving politics and going into semi retirement, John
Dawa has continued his public service, an Aid Post currently nearing completion
is also his work. John Dawa continues to lobby for funds to maintain the road
and bridges leading into Fatao, 20 years after they were originally built. I
had the good fortune of staying over at John’s house on the Saturday night and
also sharing a meal and stories with him and his family.

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I certainly hope to make it
back to Fatao soon. We are now faced with the difficult decision of choosing
where to go to on our free weekends. Kaubasis or Fatao? Decisions, decisions… decisions!
It’s lucky that the two villages are within walking distance from each other.
That’s walking distance by PNG standards by way – about four hours worth!